Sri Lankan Hillbillies

Place: Sigiriya, Sri Lanka


The remains of the wonders of the Sri Lankan past are located fairly close together in a convenient triangle layout in the center of the island (no doubt the ancient builders were thinking of future tourism) and they were our last major stops in Sri Lanka. We began in the lower right angle of the triangle in Sigiriya, where the Sigiriya Rock Fortress is located. This rock, known also as the 8th wonder of the world, is located just round the corner from the town of Sigiriya, which consisted of a convenience store on a dirt road. And two hotels. The town was dry and crispy, and had an atmosphere that gave the impression that something was not quite right. I couldn't say why it felt that way, it was hard to put my finger on what exactly was askew. Perhaps it was the clusters of young men constantly on their cell phones for short periods of time. Or the shirtless man with the gold chain serving us our dinner, also on his cell phone. Or that funny little sideways head nod all the men seem to do in response to whatever you say to them.
"Yea, ok" head bob to the right.
"So this meal is vegetarian? No meat?"
"Yea, ok" head bob to the left.
"Does the bus stop here?"
"Yea, ok" head bob to both sides.
One even told us tales, while chomping on a piece of grass, of wild herds of white elephants that storm the village at night in search of food. Despite the fact that elephants are herbivores and there are plants all around. Hmm, perhaps the elephants are taking after the local populations in their slightly hick mannerisms and IQ level. Seems we had found the hillbillies of Sri Lanka.

This is quite possibly the reason why the World Heritage Site Association, doubting the Sri Lanka public's ability, appears to have seized all the places worth visiting in Sri Lanka as their own, and are charging exorbitant fees to enter. The local price for a room in Sri Lanka, $12-20 a night, a meal $3-4. To see any of the World Heritage sites...$30. This makes it literally impossible for any locals or girls backpacking on a budget to see any of the sites at all. Fuming with anger and shaking our fists at the World Heritage Association, we walked around the base of Sigiriya Rock trying to find a weakness in their heavily guarded site so we could sneak in. They covered their bases though, with a swampy moat filled with crocodiles (or so the sign said), buzzing wasps nests, and a heard of aggressive "help men" who try and give you a tour for $18. On top of a ticket counter and guards.
I had no other choice but to bite the bullet and pay the entrance. I crossed over the crocodiles, beat my way through the wasps and "help men" and finally came to the base of the majestic fortress. The rock juts straight out of the flat landscape like the thumb of a buried giant. A straight dirt path leads you to the base of the rock. On both sides of the pathway are perfectly geometrical low brick walls, the bricks crumbling and black with age, filled with bright green grass, the remains of what was the castle gardens. Herds of cows munch on either side and occasionally a monkey swings by. Climbing up the rock face, you pass long stone mirrored walls and erotic frescoes. Half way up is the Lion Staircase with two large lion paws carved in stone that protect both sides of the marble stairs leading to the summit. They say that originally it was a complete lion statue and you enter through the mouth of the lion. Today all that remains are the paws and a few marble steps. The World Heritage replaced the marble stairway with a rickety iron staircase glued to the side of the rock with cement, where visitors clutch for dear life and try not to look down as the stairs wobble with the wind. Good to see the entrance fee is going to good use.

The summit consists of gorgeous layers of crumbling brick walls and staircases that overlook the treetops of the jungle, the base of what must have been a breathtaking community. It is hard not to sit and wonder what the place must have looked like in all it's glory, a huge palace reaching up over the curvy stone base of the rock. To wake up every morning, looking down on the lush vegetation, to pass through the Lion's mouth on your way to town, swim in the rooftop pool, and not realizing that hundreds of years later people from around the world would come to see the remains of what was your home.